Backpacker reviews of Auckland

Due to a worrying predilection that repeatedly seems to find me on dates with people who are quite clearly nuts, it's perhaps unsurprising that it's Auckland's schizophrenic character that truly made me come to love it.

True, Auckland may initially appear to have the personality of an IT technician, but you quickly realise its sleepy charm is a façade that masks an abundance of eccentric character.

As a backpacker new to the city, the CBD is the place to go for cheap drinks, and whilst noticeably absent of clubs, has more than enough bars and pubs to keep you merry enough to start harassing the Maori bouncers about deep philosophical wonderings; who'd win in a fight between them and a rhino, for example. Fort Street is both the Strip joint and Hostel Mecca, but if you're looking for something a little more, how should I say this.... spicy, it's just a short walk up to Karangahape Road which the locals affectionately call K Road.

Intersecting with mundane Queen Street, any illusions you may have of Auckland being a boring city are shattered by the big clumpy size 10 heel of a transvestite called Lickalicious.

It's a definite eye opener replete with lady-boys, stoner stores and a harder party scene. As with all good alternative areas, it also holds the quirkier establishments, with alternative medicine, hippy and op-shops a plenty. On top of this, it also has some of the best cheap eateries in the city, so definitely give it a shot.

Coming off Queen Street, it's the equivalent of taking a left off of Sesame Street to find Oscar the Grouch living next to a leather club, and all the better for it.

In the immediate vicinity of the CBD you also have the rather classy (read: expensive) Ponsonby and Viaduct area to frequent, or a little further out, the more reasonably affordable but more suburban Parnell and Newmarket to go for a tipple or 5.

Day-time activities are a little more sedate and there are plenty of free things to do. Visible from the city are One Tree Hill and Mount Eden, both natural parks rich with history and offering unparalleled views of the Hauraki Gulf and skyline, especially come sunset. There's also the stunning Domain Park, which houses Auckland's museum and acres of greenery.

If you're looking for a little more excitement of the non-transvestite variety, there's always the option to base jump off the Sky Tower or bungee jump from the Harbour Bridge, but if you've got the whole of New Zealand to explore I'd hold off, as the view from a cable car in Queenstown is probably a little prettier.

If exercise is more your thing, Mission Bay and Kohi are the best places to go for a relaxing seaside stroll, jog or bike. You can also hire kayaks and canoes from Mission Bay to paddle around the harbour, or if you're feeling especially adventurous (and borderline suicidal) you can try and oar to the surrounding islands and back.

Auckland's most unique tourist attraction is undoubtedly its position within the beautiful Hauraki Gulf and the islands that surround it. A short, cheap ferry ride takes you to either Volcanic island Rangitoto or paradise-isle Waiheke. Rangitoto offers true bush walking on an island that recently erupted (volcano-speaking) and on a sunny day, the panoramic views that can be seen from the summit are less 'picture postcard' and more 'photo-shop postcard', it's that bewilderingly beautiful. It offers a 360° view of all of Auckland's surrounding islands and the city itself, and makes the uphill slog more than worthwhile.

Waiheke is an island with its own flavour, extending to its inhabitants, architecture and climate. Surreal as it sounds, despite being only 30 mins away by ferry, Waiheke is usually a few degrees hotter and sunnier than Auckland city. When the climate and gorgeous beaches are coupled with the turquoise of the waters rebounding off a never ending slinky of velvety green hillsides, it truly reminds you of a hidden Mediterranean getaway.

Having said that, if it's grey and pissing it down when you arrive don't blame me.

On the island itself you can bus it around, but it's best to cycle or hike to get the most out of its landscape. On second thoughts, one of Waiheke's main attractions are its numerous wineries, so I'd probably steer clear of cycling if you're going for a few.

Ultimately, while Auckland is the most urban part of New Zealand you're likely to encounter, it's also the most chilled city I've been to and effortlessly blends the urban with the natural, with escapist getaways nearby for whenever you feel the need.